What’s up ya’ll, hope you’re having a successful week!
This post is going to be long, so pack a lunch.
Let’s lead off with soil temps and pre-emergent windows. As you know, I’ve been flogging my pre-emergent guide all over the internet the last 6 weeks, and in that guide, we talk about exactly what to put down on the lawn to prevent nasties like crabgrass, foxtail, poa annua... even doveweed and kyllinga.
I started early with that this year so you could literally, get ahead. Get your products in stock in the garage and ready for deployment on the slightest notice.
Well, for a good majority of you, consider this your final warning, it’s go time. The reason I know this is because I can see the soil temps where you live and I’m telling you… it’s GO TIME!
In my video this week, I talked about soil temps (briefly) and exposed you to this tool that allows you to put your zip code in and view the soil temps in almost real time.
In all reality, our primary target here is crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual, meaning, the seed germinates in spring, tillers appear in summer (bright lime green) and the matured plant RAGES into fall, drops seeds then dies after the first hard frost. Those seeds (and thousands of others from over the years) can and will begin germinating the following spring when soil temps hit 55 degrees F.
Now, it’s not like ALL of them just start growing like clockwork all at the same time… conditions vary greatly in the soil. Areas near the sidewalk for example, will heat up faster than other areas of the lawn - hence when you almost always see the first and strongest breakthrough around concrete surfaces.
Anyway...check out how far north the temps are getting into the zone already! Look at where you are sitting, then think about how much hotter the temps are around your hardscapes and concrete driveway.
You may already be too late!!! (no you’re not but don’t dilly dally either!)
Think that’s cool? Well a dude on YouTube (and another LCN brother on Facebook) left me a comment revealing this little gem:
It’s limited to the Great Lakes Region of the country, but it gives you actual windows of when to apply. I swear I must have just plugged in zip codes for hours when I found it. Great fun, not kidding.
“What if I’m in Southern Georgia and missed my window completely, should I still throw’er down Prodiamine?”
Remember, it’s not like ALL of the seed germinate at one time … they germinate over time so go ahead and stop what you can now. Sometimes it may feel like you are just throwing a lawn chair off the Titanic… but I assure you, every weed you stop is a win. Celebrate the small wins.
Lastly, I know the granular prodiamine has been selling out. That’s your fault BTW, but anyway...
If you do want to work with the liquid version (water dispersible granule), it’s not really that difficult to apply and gives you quite a bit of flexibility. I show you how to mix and spray it in this video. This jug will also last you a lot longer.
The mix rate for warm season grasses and tall fescue is .75 oz/gallon. 1 gallon covers 1,000 square ft. (KBG and Rye .55oz/gallon)
Ok, ready for more of the tip?
I’ve been having a ton of fun with these products. I’m hoping I can do a more detailed video this coming weekend and talk more about why I’m busting out “full nut” with this stuff, but in the meantime, there is one TRUE reason why I’m on board this humic-acid-sea-kelp-liquid-aeration train…
...I’m on board because they allow you to really scratch the “Throw’er Down” itch that we all have. You know what I mean…
...that little voice inside your head that tells you to add “just a bit more” than you should of your Milo or other fertilizer product… you know you do it. I do too. (not with pesticides/herbicides though!)
All kidding aside, you know as well as I do that you get a feeling of satisfaction when you throw down something good on the lawn. Seriously, I get a literal endorphin rush minutes after finishing a Milo application. (That could be that sweet sweet scent coming through my brain too, you never know.)
The N-Ext products (remember, N-Ext stands for “Nitrogen Extension”) don’t have that beautiful Milo smell, but they do provide you the ability to literally paint on some goodness with no fear while at the same time building soil health.
Sometimes when I spray them, I’m channeling my inner Bob Ross and painting Happy Grass Plants with Humic12. It is truly satisfying... a little Alizarin Crimson and just a touch of Van Dyke Brown, yeah, paint that happy turf with that beautiful brunette Humic12. Maybe a touch of RGS to bring out the highlights. Your soil will thank you.
Either way, get the guide here realizing this is just a general strategy that can be utilized with success for any grass type. If you do want something a little more specific, and you have a warm season grass type… keep reading...
Last but certainly not least, I’m releasing an ebook that is a step-by-step full season lawn plan for warm season turf. It’s ready right now and you can purchase directly from my store. This is a yearly lawn plan for grass types:
I tell you exactly what to put down, and when to put it down. I am releasing this ebook (and one soon to follow for cool season turf) as a way to offer those of you who want it, an easy to follow guide of what to put down, when to put it down and how much.
It’s very similar to what I give my lawn coaching folks… except for the fact that their plans are specific to their own site and we are able to explore conditions such as sun/shade ratio, specific grade issues, irrigation and even set plans up according to their busy travel and work schedules.
I can’t give you all that in an ebook obviously, but what I can do is give you a very smart plan that will work for the majority of you. This is also helpful because my coaching is sold out. I keep it limited so I can devote the right amount of time to just a few people rather than getting spread too thin. (coaching members, you will get this book for free in the slack channel)
Additionally, in the book, I talk about post-emergent weed control products for the different grass types and how using combinations in your attack can help eliminate and reduce weed populations quicker… especially when coupled with a strong pre-emergent game.
I also include more specific application timing and rates using the optional N-Ext Fertility products to boost the effectiveness of the base program. Use of the N-Ext products is completely optional. You will get great results with or without them.
Buy the Book Here.
I’ll see you in the lawn!
Shout out to Josh for help with the Bob Ross photoshop. :)