By popular demand, I am releasing today a 1-sheet bio-stimulant application schedule.
It’s important that you read this entire email as it answers some of the most frequently asked questions we get about the bio-stimulant pack and the products therein.
First off, there is no perfect application schedule for these!
You literally can apply any of them, anytime you want and they won’t hurt anything, they are always good for the soil.
So if you are on another application schedule, you are all good, no worries.
You can jump in and start using this one, or stick with whatever other plan you are already on.
This 1-sheeter (download here) lines up pretty close to our app.
The difference is the app has some nuance based on warm-season vs cool-season lawns whereas this 1-sheeter falls in between.
AGAIN - it’s not necessary to stick to any one plan, you can literally spray any of them anytime.
I know I keep saying that but if you saw the panicked emails we get from people you’d know why I keep reiterating that it’s OK TO SPRAY ANY OF THEM, ANYTIME. Ha ha!
Now, let me give you some logical ideas about them, just so you understand a little more of the “why” behind the schedule.
I call this the “base” product in the line.
It’s got the 2 primary bio-stimulants all in one: Humic Acid (6%) and sea kelp (3%). Humic acid builds soil structure, increases water-holding capacity, and chelates nutrients.
Sea kelp stimulates the grass plant to produce roots and/or stolons and rhizomes. You will find this recommended at a low rate in every step of the plan.
This one has the highest concentration of humic acid in the line at 12%.
Humic acid is the final component of the natural decay of plant and animal materials.
Over thousands of years, as organic materials “decompose” they end up in sediment layers known as “leonardite” and it is from this substance that humic acid is extracted via a process similar to brewing.
This is by far the easiest, and most economical way to add carbon materials to “bad” soil.
It is literally what it’s name describes: liquid aeration.
The process of “aeration” is designed to create space in the soil (especially tightly packed clay soils) so there is room for air, water and nutrients to penetrate.
The potassium hydroxide in Air8, when added to soil with water, literally breaks bonds in the soil, opening space. It literally creates a mild chemical reaction that causes soil to open up.
You won’t see it bubbling or fizzing or anything like that, this happens at a micro level, but it does create space and you don’t have to rent a mechanical aerator or break your back to get it done.
It’s all done when you water it in. Additionally, Air8 contains 8% humic acid to pack these openings with carbon.
You will notice this is the only product that contains an “analysis” meaning, it’s the only one with actual nutrient value.
It’s a great minors blend for all grass types that also contains 2% potassium. It contains 3% iron and will give your lawn a little pop of blue-green color.
It’s also spiked with 8% humic acid to help stretch the effectiveness of the included nutrients as well as 2% sea kelp to stimulate more roots to take in those nutrients.
If you want a higher pop of color, you can apply this one at 12 oz/1,000 sq ft and see a deep blue-green color in about 6-7 days.
Do not get this on your sidewalks or driveway as it can stain them orange!
You can pick up a bio-stimulant pack right here and get started in a few days!
Can I mix these all together?
Yes and no. If you mix them together, they are not going to hurt one another, or hurt the lawn. However, these concentrates can get thick and too many of them together are not easy to spray out.
Here is a full video where I give you some sound strategies for applying.
If you have a larger sprayer (4-gallon backpack or 25-gallon pull behind) and you have to mix them/apply them together - ALWAYS add water to the tank first (half-filled) then add your concentrates and agitate fully, then add the rest of your water.
Do the bio-stimulants need to be watered in?
If you are applying with a pump or backpack sprayer, yes they do. Water them in on the same day with at least ¼” of irrigation.
If you let rain wash them in, that’s great! Even a heavy rain won’t wash them away so don’t worry.
If you use a hose-end sprayer, you do not have to water them in but I still recommend you do anyway - we want them in the soil so more water gets them there faster.
What if I don’t water them in?
If you don’t water them in, some of the product will stick to the grass blades and you can often see brown spots on them. This is not ideal but it’s still ok.
Just be sure that you are mulching your clippings when you mow (which I recommend anyway) and eventually, everything will get down into the soil as those clippings break down and rain or irrigation carries everything downward. Just realize, this makes the results slower.
Can they burn my lawn?
If you over-apply, no worries, they will not burn or hurt the lawn.
However, I recommend you stay within the labeled rates - don’t over-apply on purpose because that is just wasteful.
Are there heat restrictions?
There are no heat restrictions on these products - just follow the schedule and recommended rates and you will be all good.
Can I use these in my vegetable garden?
Yes you sure can! Use a root drench application method with your garden meaning, get a 5-gallon bucket and put water and concentrates in there then drench the root zone of your plants.
Every two weeks put into that bucket 3 oz of each: RGS, Humic12, and MicroGreene.
Mix that in the bucket with 3-4 gallons of water, stir, and drench!
Can I use these in my planting beds, on bushes and trees?
The answer to this is pretty much the same as vegetable gardens.
However, we do have a complete Tree, shrub and palm pack that would be better suited as an overall fertilization solution for bushes, trees and palms.
Hope you have a great end of the week and I'll see you in the lawn!